DFB Dampfbahn Furka-Bergstrecke AG
Postfach 141
CH-6490 Andermatt |
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+41 41 888 00 40
+41 848 000 144 |
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Travel report Realp – Furka – Gletsch
The steam train experience by the Rhone Glacier
The journey with the
Dampfbahn Furka-Bergstrecke (Furka Steam Mountain Railway – DFB) begins on the outskirts of the village of Realp (Canton of Uri) in an Alpine valley near the St. Gotthard Pass, a few kilometres
beyond the winter sports resort of Andermatt. Directly adjacent to the Furka-Oberalp Railway (FO) station, at an altitude of 1546 m above sea level, is the terminus of the steam railway. There is
also a car park here for guests arriving by their own cars or by coach. The trains made up of open-topped observation coaches and historically restored passenger coaches can be boarded from the
platform newly constructed in 1997, which is also accessible for wheelchairs. When one of the over 80-year-old steam locomotives, which have been retrofitted with modern technology, is coupled to the
train, the trip rich in experience to Furka and Gletsch (by the Rhone Glacier) can start. |
Soon the ascent begins
The engine driver lets steam flow into the
cylinders and the train starts to move slowly. After the departure, the line turns towards the course of the young river Furka Reuss. The tracks of the FO in the same direction vanish into the
darkness of the 15.44-km-long Furka Base Tunnel opened in 1982. On the right can be seen the DFB's Realp Depot where most of the rolling stock is maintained in a three-track shed constructed in
1989/90. Now begins an initially gentle gradient with the track following the course of the burbling Reuss. Along first rock faces, the steaming locomotive with its rake of three coaches encounters
the Witenwasseren Reuss flowing in from the left, fed by the snow and glacier ice of the Bianco mountain massif.
The driver slows the train to a speed of some 10 km/h so that the driving cogwheels
on the locomotive and the brake cogwheels on the coaches can engage in the Abt rack rail with a metallic clanking noise. In the sure grip of this over 100-year-old drive system, the well-filled
composition rapidly gains height up a first 110 per mil ramp. Soon the Reuss is crossed for the first time over the Wiler Bridge. The train crosses the steel structure erected after the collapse of
its predecessor in 1955 to the right side of the valley where the line continues through a precipitous terrain. |
Wiler bridge
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Steffenbach bridge
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Steffenbach bridge
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Tunnels and bridges
The valley now becomes narrower and narrower and
the track winds its way in several curves with a constant gradient past steep barren slopes. Various afforestation schemes are intended to slow down the erosion here and thus protect the steam
railway from mud-flows.
While the fireman shovels coal regularly into the firebox, the train approaches the three Alt-Senntumstafel tunnels. As little smoke as possible should now come from the
locomotive chimney so that the passengers are not bothered while travelling through the short bores. The spasmodic sound of the beat of the locomotive exhaust echoes from the tunnel walls and the
steam envelops the train. In the meantime, the train has already climbed to an altitude of almost 1800 m and the Furka Reuss can still be admired in its rocky bed.
The valley gradually becomes
wider again. However, you should not allow yourself to be distracted by the mountain peaks appearing. Because now comes the most important structure on the Uri side of the Furka Mountain Railway. The
rake thunders across the famed Steffenbach Bridge. This unusual construction crosses an unspectacular mountain stream at a height of 36 m. The folding mechanism allows the three parts of the bridge
to be brought into protection from avalanches during the winter months.
Whereas down below in the Urseren Valley near Realp the warm summer sun could already be felt, up here, at 1800 m above sea
level, spring has just arrived. The last of the snow masses will have finally melted away by July and the first flowers will shoot up. In August, the alpine roses in intensive red can be admired. In
the high Alps, summer is limited to some two months during which a captivating fauna and numerous cattle on their alpine pastures fire passengers with enthusiasm. |
Tiefenbach Station
The line now reaches Kalt Herbrig where the train
leaves the rack again on the level section. Here it stops at Tiefenbach Station (1846 m). Not far from the stop is the water chamber for the supply pipe to the Göschneralp artificial lake
located in the neighbouring valley. Only the front façade of the station building is to be seen as it has been built completely into the mountain to protect it from the avalanches which come
thundering down every year.
After a short stop to take on water, a high-pitched blast on the locomotive whistle announces the resumption of the journey. Directly after the exit points, a further
stretch of rack begins which the steam railway climbs at a gradient of a maximum of 110 per mil to Furka Station.
The Furka Reuss now carries more water and, depending on the season and
precipitation, can turn really wild. On the right side of the train, a newly constructed path runs along the track. During transhumance in summer, it serves the herdsman on Alp Steinstafel as a
roadway down which he is able to bring his animals' milk to the cheese dairy in the valley.
The track now leads through several curves past the shifting slope 'Bärentritt' which is secured
with timber barricades. Now it is possible to look across the upper part of the valley known as 'Garschen'. On the right mountain flank, the Tiefenbach comes foaming down to the valley bottom. High
above lies the small settlement of the same name with its hotel on the Furka Pass road. By the track, a cattle shed nestles against a large, free-standing block of rock. Behind it stands the Alpine
herdsman's house. The children cheer on most of the trains, waving their handkerchiefs at them.
The Steinstafel Viaduct here deserves the passengers' interest, crossing the Furka Reuss with five
natural stone arches. The line now leads to the left side of the valley where it ascends along the slope to the summit tunnel without any further curves. Various water courses are crossed en route.
The Sidelenbach Bridge, where the Sidelenstafel pastures begin, is one of the larger structures passed. Here the line is already at an altitude of 1950 m. The train continues to ascend the ramp
puffing and snorting. The locomotive travels towards the 'Blauberg', on the inhospitable scree of which traces of snow shine out. They will probably hardly melt away before the onset of the next
winter at the end of October.
The milk cows with their bells as well as the young heifers look curiously at the loudly hissing train. After it has passed by, they turn back to the much sought
after grass of the Alpine meadows. |
Steinstafel viaduct
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Steinstafel viaduct
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Sidelenbach bridge
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Furka Station
After some 50 minutes of travel full of variety, the
train leaves the rack rail once again to enter Furka Station (2160 m). Until the end of the 1999 operating season, the DFB steam railway service ended here. The station building, constructed once
again into the slope, accommodates the offices with the newly installed safety installation (block system in the summit tunnel). Apart from toilets, a cosy small restaurant awaits hikers and railway
fans who can refresh themselves here during the intermediate stop of the trains.
The steam locomotive, however, may not take a rest, because it has to be turned on the newly restored turntable for
the descent to Gletsch. On account of the water level in the boiler, as a rule, it travels downhill with the driving cab facing in the direction of travel.
If the weather is good, nature-lovers
can see the peaks of the Kleines Furkahorn and the Muttenhorn. In the distance can also be seen some of the mountains of the Oberalp region. |
Furka Summit Tunnel
After the signal to depart has been given, the
cobalt blue train disappears into the Furka Summit Tunnel which begins directly after the station and is nowadays controlled by signals. In the observation coaches, roller shutters protect the
passengers from being bothered by the smoke. The 1874-metre-long tunnel passes below the 2758-metre-high Blauberg. This mountain massif forms the boundary between the cantons of Uri and Valais and is
also crossed by the Furka Pass.
The geological conditions in the tunnel structure did not only cause difficulties during the time of its construction (1913-1916). The restoration in the 1990s also
required great efforts which is why it was only possible to take up through working from Realp to Gletsch on 14 July 2000.
After some ten minutes' journey through the dark summit tunnel, the first
sunrays herald the western portal from which the train finally emerges into no less mountainous Valais. |
Muttbach-Belvédère Station
Directly after leaving the
tunnel, a station once again allows trains to cross. It was constructed on the material excavated from the tunnel and bears the name of the mountain stream which plunges down on the left from the
Mutt Glacier. The term Belvédère refers to the famous lookout point where the hotel rich in tradition of the same name sits enthroned above the Rhone Glacier.
The landscape to be
explored here is under European protection and fills visitors with admiration and enthusiasm. After the exit points of the station with passing loop begins the decent immediately of a 118 per mil
gradient which is once again equipped with an Abt rack rail. The train travels down towards the valley pounding and hissing on its way. The steam is also used to brake the some 44-tonne-heavy
locomotive. The cog wheels of the coaches also help to keep the train travelling slowly. On the right side of the coach, the terrain drops down to the glacial soil of Gletschboden covered with rare
flora. |
Muttbach Level Crossing
Alongside the railway line now appears the
Furka Pass road which soon has to be crossed. The memory of the former level crossing is still present for many people. It was a serious obstacle for motorists which they used to have to cross
carefully. The rack rail at a slightly higher level above the road surface caused many a dangerous fall to cyclists. This road crossing was the second great challenge for the DFB after the summit
tunnel which had to be mastered at justifiable cost. The first project planned was an underpass which it was not, however, possible to realise for financial reasons. The solution was found finally by
shifting the track, with a change in the level situation, meaning that it was possible to dispense with the troublesome rack rail in the area of the road.
In the meantime, the steam train has
reached Muttbach Level Crossing. The road users are stopped with red warning flags. This blocking procedure from the early years of the railway belongs to the nostalgic experience of the Furka
Mountain Railway. To be on the safe side, there is also a traffic light. Only when the last passenger coach has passed the level crossing may road traffic cross the track again.
The DFB line now
descends to Gletsch on a last rack section with a maximum gradient of 118 per mil. To the left above you can still see the Furka Pass road up which, on fine summer days, numerous postal buses,
motorbikes and cyclists, cars and coaches wind their way. More interesting, however, is the outlook from the right side of the coach where you can now catch an incomparably enchanting view of the
Rhone Glacier. The Rhone, which is known as the Rotten in the German-speaking part of Valais, also has its source in its centuries-old ice mass. The bizarre ice seems close enough to touch. The Hotel
Belvédère at the edge of the glacier can also be readily recognised. It was constructed before the railway and could only be reached at that time by horse-drawn carriage or on foot.
From this complex it is still possible to visit the some 100-metre-long ice cave or to make a guided crossing of the glacier. |
Gletsch Station
Soon, on the right side, the Blaues Haus and the former
Seiler-Hotel Glacier du Rhône are to be seen. The train reduces its speed. The pass road has to be crossed for a second time. Once again the railway staff block the crossing with red warning
flags so that the train can cross the road carefully after leaving the rack. With a shrill blast on its whistle, the steam train enters Gletsch Station. The nostalgic trip with the DFB ends here
after a journey lasting some 90 minutes. From the platform, the passengers cross the Rhone on an iron bridge to the reception building where interesting souvenirs are on sale. At the main road the
public post buses are waiting to travel to Oberwald, as well as over the Grimsel or Furka Pass. In addition, the flora in Gletschboden can be explored on a hiking tour along the nature-trail.
Work
is already under way on continuing the line to Oberwald. It is planned to be able to admire this splendid section from steam trains once again in the year 2006. |
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Thank you very much for your visit. Until next time!
The Furka
Cogwheel Steam Railway team |
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| First edition by Beat H. Schweizer, updated by Beat Moser (12.08.2000) |
| Pictures: Beat Moser, Anton Heimen, Urs Jossi, Tibert Keller, Heinz Mohler, Hubert von Moos, Heinz Seyller, Martin
Wymann |
